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ISSUE 2 |
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WINTER 1991 |
CHEMICAL FREE FESCUE CONVERSION
Some people, because they are environmentally conscious or don't want to
incur the expense of chemicals (although this is a false perception), prefer and alternative method for fescue sod conversion that the use of chemicals. In this case the only way to get favorable results is to plow the fescue sod and start with a conventional seedbed. There are several things to be concerned about and a couple of tips to help you make this method more successful.
Just as with chemical conversion, fescue is going to be hard to control. Rhizomes within the soil can resprout and create real problems in a hurry. The best way to gain control over the rhizomes is to plow the sod in the fall to expose them to the freezing weather of winter. Now, before all of you soil conservationists for a lynch mob to come get me, listen to the rest of what I have to say. Plowing should always be done on the contour. Leave critical areas undisturbed (waterways, drainage areas, steep slopes, etc.). I strongly recommend leaving an 8 to 12 foot wide strip around the perimeter of the field. Not only can these strips act as filter strips but can be used as fire lanes when burning during later years. I can also feel secure in knowing that this breech of good land husbandry is justified because it is for the long term benefit. Wildlife habitat will be better, soil healthier, and the environment more habitable.
Over the years the grass sod has suppressed many other grasses and weeds. Once the sod is weakened or disturbed all of those annual grasses and weeds are released. Plowing also brings new seeds to the surface. Even if you get good control of the fescue there will be a tremendous amount of competition from these new invaders.
Without chemicals, weed control is a strategy of proper mechanical disturbance and timing. Begin in the spring as soon as possible. Disc to work down the plowed sod. Prepare the seedbed to the point where you would make one last pass before planting but exclude that last step. Allow the field to green up will all of those invading weeds then disc to kill them. It is very important to disc shallow. If you disc deep you will only bring more seeds up into the germination zone. Once again allow the field to green up and disc to kill the competition. This step can be repeated as many times as wanted, the more times you break the cycle the better weed control you will have. Planting late in the season will also help, provided you don't have seed with high dormancy.
If you follow these steps, reoccurring fescue or weeds won't be a significant problem. If you do have problems with weeds, mow above any new native grass seedlings, to open the canopy. Burning at the proper time during the spring will also help control many weeds. Burning is also the only non-chemical control of fescue other than physically removing the plant. To achieve maximum control on fescue, burn when newly emerging native grasses are 1 inch tall.
The cost of this method is very similar to the cost of chemical control. What you save in chemical costs you spend in additional trips across the field, not to mention the additional time needed. If you don't fall plow or only disc down weeds once it is likely to be much more expensive in the long run.
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