Nearly everywhere I give a presentation on native grasses these questions always come up: How do I convert my fescue to native grasses? Is there anything I can do short of starting over? Can I overseed my fescue pastures? Do I have to use chemicals and if so, which ones? Well, you don't necessarily have to plow up the existing sod but you will have to use

Start planning ahead by leaving fescue pastures ungrazed and unhayed during the fall. If you are not using the fescue for forage, ideally they should be left undisturbed from the spring on. The purpose for this is to provide enough litter to carry a fire the next spring. The more residual matter you have left the easier it will be to burn. I have read some material that recommends mowing the fescue during the late spring so as to not allow the development of seed heads. Although I have not done this myself, I would not argue that this step is not necessary. In my opinion, anything you can do to help control potential recurring problems with the fescue is not wasted effort.

Burning the fescue is the next step in the plan and should be done during March or April for best results. As far as I'm concerned, burning is the strategic ingredient in this recipe. Burning removes the top growth from the plants and causes them to go to their roots for carbohydrate reserves to green up. Once the grass greens up a large portion of the energy from photosynthesis goes to replacing the depleted carbohydrates in the roots.

Timing of the burn is important but timing of the chemical application is critical. Glyphosate is a contact herbicide which means one absorbed into the plant it is translocated throughout the plant. To get the most effective kill on fescue apply the chemical when the burned grasses have greened up and are 2 to 4 inches tall. Through your manipulation the grass plants are helping to distribute the chemical through the roots and rhizomes. Without the influence of burning you don't get the help of the plant in distributing the chemical. Some rhizomes won't get killed.

For liability reasons I won't make recommendations on rates of chemical application due to differing soil types, organic matter or local regulations. It is best to contact your local ag-chem dealer or extension office for their specific recommendation. As always, read and follow all the manufacturer's recommendations on the label.

Planting can be done any time after the chemical application. The label on glyphosates does not carry a restriction for a waiting period before planting, but most chemical industry people recommend waiting long enough to determine whether you got a good kill. The rational being, it is cheaper to retreat the area than it is to follow up with other chemical treatments. In the case of native grasses, retreatment is cheaper than a stand failure from competition and retreatment and seed purchase.

Planting is accomplished with the use of a no-till grass drill. Switchgrass, debearded big bluestem and debearded indiangrass can be planted with a conventional no-till grass drill but little bluestem, and most of the time, sideoats grama can't. To plant the chaffy native grasses or non-bearded grasses a no-till rangeland drill is necessary, such as the one manufactured by the Truax Company of Minneapolis, MN. The challenge may be finding one to use. Chances are, unless you have a lot of acres to plant or intend to get into the planting business you can't justify the purchase of one of these specific drills. Check with your local State Fish and Game agency, Soil and Water Conservation district, or Quail Unlimited chapter to see if they have one available for rent. If they do not, ask if they know any custom seeders who do. If you still can't find one, your only option it to buy debearded seed and use a conventional no-till grass drill. Conventional no-till drills are generally available through your Soil and Water Conservation district or a local farm implement dealer.

As with a conventional seedbed, seed should be planted 1/2 to 1/4 inch deep and good seed/soil contact is essential. Avoid planting into too wet conditions, typically the furrows don't close well for that important seed/soil contact. Usually a moist, but not wet, soil is best. The coulters penetrate well and the press wheels do a good job of closing the furrow.

The University of Missouri has done some research which indicates an insecticide placed in furrow improves establishment of seedlings. More accurately it is probably survival of the seedlings. Unfortunately, at this time Diazanon is the only insecticide labeled for use in a few states. If you choose to use any chemical inconsistent with its labeling you assume all liability.

Unless the moon is just right, you hold your tongue just right and everything else is just right you probably won't get a complete kill on the fescue and subsequent treatment may be necessary. Additionally, the die down of the fescue sod will release other annual grasses and weeds to begin growing. Atrazine is commonly used in native grasses but there are some conditions and precautions to follow. As of the '91 planting season, atrazine was labeled for use on established rangeland plantings for the control of unwanted annual grasses and broadleaves. The rumor for a couple of years has been that atrazine is going to loose that label. Check before using it. Atrazine can be used with new switchgrass and big bluestem plantings but not with new indiangrass or little bluestem. However, it can be used with all four in established plantings. The method I have used in new plantings is to apply atrazine 5 to 7 days after planting switchgrass or big bluestem but before new seedlings have emerged. Atrazine works in the root zone and does require rain to be effective. As before, check with your ag-chem dealer or extension office for recommendation rates.

Once your stand is established, a controlled burn when newly emerging native grasses are about 1 inch tall, will help control fescue invasion. When haying or grazing leave stubble heights of 6 to 8 inches to maintain healthy productive native grasses. Never hay after August 1. Overgrazed or native grasses which have been hayed too late in the year become weak and unproductive. Root biomass is reduced and competitiveness is compromised creating an environment favorable for fescue and weedy invasion. If you use fertilizer to enhance forage production of the native grasses, apply it at the right time. Apply fertilizer when new growth on native grasses is 4 to 8 inches. Do not fall fertilize. Fertilizer applied earlier or during the fall will only help unwanted competitions. Use only moderate amounts of fertilizer. Native grasses utilize nutrients much more efficiently and any surplus will be used by the undesirables.

This is just one of several methods used to convert fescue sod to native grasses. Other methods can be just as successful but for my money, this method provides the best control and is the most economical.. For those of you who know me, you realize the significance of that last statement, "for my money".