TIPS FOR DRILLING CHAFFY GRASS SEED

When using a native grass drill, otherwise known as a rangeland drill, there

SLOW AS YOU GO

The first tip I have to offer is not to plant too fast. The first impulse after the drill is set and calibrated is to get done as fast as possible. If you were planting soybeans, corn or milo you could go 6, 8 or 10 MPH and get your planting done in a hurry. Remember, they flow. Native grasses don't. Planting should be done at 3 to 5 MPH. The fluffier the seed, the slower you go, also the more inert material in the seed, the slower you need to go. Several problems occur if you go too fast. Seed falling from the drop tube to the furrow hits the spinning coulter. Native grass seed, being light and fluffy, is sent for a ride, perhaps falling in furrow, perhaps not. Evidently more falls out rather than in. I have seen the results of planting too fast. Usually it is a thin and scattered stand.
Have you ever been packing something into a bag and not had enough room? What is the first thing you do to make more room? Bounce it up and down on the floor a few times. Right? Now imagine if that were a bag full of cockleburs. As long as it is not packed tightly you can take them out one at a time. Bounce it up and down on the floor a few times and you can only get out handfuls at a time. Chaffy seed behaves similarly. Drilling too fast bounces and packs the seed. I know, you are saying, "but the agitators in the seed box keep that from happening." You're right, but it does affect the calibration of the drill. You end up planting more "handfuls" than individual seeds. In the worst possible case scenario, seed will pack so tightly that it ends up shearing a pin. I have seen it happen a number of times.

Wear and tear on the equipment will be less at slower speeds as well.

CHECK THE DEPTH

You've probably heard it preached so many times you can't help but know the proper planting depth, 1/4 inch. Initially set the planting depth in the field but before you start to drill. Pull the tractor and drill forward 10 to 15 feet and check the planting depth. Make any adjustments and repeat the procedure if necessary. Remember, seed deeper than 1/2 inch will most probably be lost. Some seed on the surface is acceptable, actually preferable to too deep.
Take the tractor up to planting speed and plant a few hundred feet. Stop, then check the planting depth again. Seed placement will be different under actual planting conditions than at slow speeds and short pulls. The bouncing of the drill and the faster turning furrow openers will have an affect on planting depth. It is important to check planting depth under actual planting conditions.

FILL 'ER UP

Fill the seed boxes loosely, level to the top. Do not pack seed into the box to get that last little bit left in the bag. Packed seed will not flow through the drill the same, if at all, and calibration will not be accurate. You may also run the risk of packing seed so tight that it will shear a pin.
Check the level of seed in the seed box often. You don't want to waste your time pulling an empty drill. Stopping and checking also serves as a means to recheck calibration. Once you are calibrated you should be able to keep track of the time and get an idea of when you need to stop and refill. The drill holds X number of bags of seed, one bag plants Y acres and you are planting at a rate of Z acres an hour.

Keep the seed level above the agitator shaft. Drilling with less seed will result inaccurate seeding rates.

WET ENOUGH, BUT NOT TOO WET

A good general rule of thumb is: If the soil is wet enough to stick to the drill coulters, it is too wet to plant. Once again, regular seeds and grains can be planted in considerably wetter conditions than chaffy grasses but we're not planting regular seeds or grains.
During drilling, when the soil is too wet, the seed between the furrow openers sticks to the soil and is pulled out of the ground as the coulters pull through and out of the soil. Some of the seed ends up on top of the ground but most of it ends up stuck to the out side of the coulters with all the mud.

HIND SIGHT IS 20/20

One of the most common mistakes people make when drilling chaffy seeds is once the drill is calibrated and set, off they go never looking back to check the drill. An hour later when they stop to refill the seed box, lo and behold, one or more dividers in the seed box is still full. A clogged drop tube is usually the culprit.
A good rangeland drill will have a means to visually check to be sure seed is flowing from the seed box through the drop tubes into the furrow openers. Any chaffy seed you buy will have some small plant stems or other debris which could clog the drop tube. If you regularly check the openings in the transitions you will know immediately if a drop tube is plugged. Stop the tractor and drill and unplug it. Many are tempted to just ignore it and go on, particularly if it is just one drop tube. Resist the temptation, as time goes on the clog will only get worse and can become a nightmare to relieve.

While looking back and checking, be sure to see that everything is working properly. Sheared pins, chains off of sprockets, clutches engaged or any number of things could be happening (or not happening) to keep your drill from working. The worst thing you can do is spend several hours planting to discover you haven't planted a thing.

DON'T BACK UP

Avoid backing up the drill when it is in gear or in the down, planting position. This also includes not making turns so sharp as to cause one end of the drill to back up.
Backing a drill in loose soil could clog the lower end of the drop tube or on double disc openers force dirt between the discs interfering with seed placement. Additionally, some drills have to travel a short distance before a clutch engages. This could cause problems with seed flow or possibly shear a pin.

CHECK AND RECHECK CALIBRATION

When calibrating, put enough seed into the seed box to at least cover the auger shaft. If you use less seed the calibration may be inaccurate. Repeat the calibration procedure several times to confirm your results. Non-flowing native grasses do strange things. I recommend repeating the process at least 3 times after you think it is set. If you get similar results two of the three times then consider it set but don't forget about it. Ground check your calibration. You know that a 50 pound bag of seed will cover X number of acres. Put in one bag, estimate X number of acres and check to see if you are still on track.
Chaffy seed flows through a drill differently depending upon the roughness of the terrain, planting speed and even humidity. Calibration always needs to be checked under actual planting conditions and rechecked throughout the day. I've seen the amount of seed actually being planted change from the morning to afternoon. The seed is still the same lot and the drill is still set the same but the seed flows differently. Humidity has a surprising affect on fluffy seeds. The drier the air the fluffier the seed. This is really noticeable with little bluestem. If you are planting over two or more days recheck the calibration each day.

Recalibrate when you change lots of seed, even if they happen to be the same PLS. Different lots flow differently.

MISCELLANY

When planting around a field, rather than back and forth in rows, drill with the drive wheel to the inside. The wheel travels less distance therefore conserving seed. Avoid figure eight turns, they waste seed and you run the risk of backing up one end of the drill. If you have left seed in the chaffy seed box while transporting the drill from one field to another, open the seed box and fluff the seed manually before starting to drill again. Seed settles and packs when the drill is moved while out of gear. Drilling without loosening the seed could shear a pin. If you have any seed left over after drilling your field go back to the drainage areas and high traffic areas and double drill. Do not leave any seed in any seed box you do not intend to plant. Simply disengaging or closing the box off will not keep the seed from being planted. And finally, always remove any left over seed when done drilling.
When planting native grasses, I'd rather instruct someone with no planting experience at all than try to get an "old hand" at planting to pay attention to the details I've outlined. You can't take row crop methods and apply them to chaffy grasses. If you do, you will be disappointed with the results. Native grasses aren't difficult to plant they are just different. Pay attention to the details and you will increase your success.